Coo

North from Altnaharra down the Naver valley to Betty Hill and my first glimpse of the northern coast of Scotland.

Empty beaches, towering cliffs and the northern ocean stretching away - next landfall Iceland.

Early arrival at the splendid Strathy Inn and a walk out to the lighthouse at Strathy Point - and an extraordinary panorama of the northern coast.

Later an in-depth discussion in the inn's bar between landlord and two friendly bikers on the benefits of Avon 'Skin so Soft' as a near-miraculous midge-repellant.